The EGR is a federally mandated system designed to control tailpipe exhaust emissions. The EGR system reduces emissions by returning small amounts of metered exhaust gases back to the engine intake.
The EGR is left well enough alone as long as it's working properly. My engine was pulled to install new turbochargers. To get to the EGR bolt that threads into the drivers side exhaust manifold the brake booster has to come out. There are better mechanics still that tell me it is not worth the effort unless the engine is out of the car. In theory, can a Z pass emissions without an EGR? We don't have "sniffer" tests where I live, so my info on this is second hand, but I consider it reliable.
The answer is yes, usually no problem. I run "high-flow" cats on my car. Z's have passed the strictest emissions tests without EGR's. The EGR is well hidden under the hood and cannot be seen upon casual inspection. The EGR is on the back of the engine, in the middle, facing the firewall. This will keep the car from passing emissions. I am told by peeps who know a lot more about this than me that replacing the temperature sensor at the EGR with a 68K ohm resistor will fix this problem and keep the CEL off.
Recall that it is a federal violation to tamper with any vehicle's emissions system. But in theory, if a car passed emissions without an EGR, then that car is still meeting federally mandated pollution standards. This question pops up when folks start trying to understand and analyze how the EGR works. Here is my take on it. This next part gets a little confusing.
The exhaust gases have already been combusted and therefore contain less oxygen. Plus, even the exhaust gases are still cooler than the temperatures in the combustion chambers. Removing the EGR should not put the engine under increased risk.Message This is my version of the carbon canister removal and bypass for a twin turbo.
I make no claims that this is the only way to do the job, other than I practiced due diligence in my research and pass on the info in good faith. What is the carbon canister? Cars have three main sources of air pollution, along with the federally mandated systems installed to reduce emissions. First, the crankcase emissions are returned to the engine by the positive crankcase ventilation PCV system. Second, the tailpipe exhaust emissions are controlled mainly by the exhaust gas return EGR system, the catalytic converters, and by electronic control unit adjustments ECU to the engine.
Finally, fumes from the gas tank are sealed from the atmosphere by a gas cap, and stored in a carbon canister CC for reburning when the engine is running. The gas fumes are trapped in the carbon canister while the car is at rest, then purged back into the intake system using vacuum pressure when the car is running. There are no performance issues or exhaust emissions issues whether or not a CC is in place or removed.
If you have a Z, read the tech section at the end. Why remove the carbon canister? Weight reduction is minimal, the canister only weighs a couple of pounds, but every little bit helps. As a potential source of vacuum leaks, there are several separate lines and even the canister itself can crack with age. A failed, damaged or clogged canister is a known cause for the engine to run poorly. Eliminating unnecessary vacuum lines also simplifies future trouble shooting and maintenance. The canister sits right behind the DS IC.
Eliminating the CC does mean you will be venting some gas tank fumes to the atmosphere. Since this is illegal the instructions here are for discussion purposes only, and not intended as a recommendation or endorsement to doing anything to your car that will increase air pollution. A malfunctioning gas cap will release much more hydrocarbons into the atmosphere than the CC bypass as described here. In fact, my method releases less fumes than other bypasses because a bleeder valve is used at the end of the fuel vent line.
When to do it? Whenever the front fascia FF is off, or whenever a problem is suspected with the system read about the temporary diagnostic bypass in the tech section at the end to test if your system is working. Tool needed Simple hand tools, 10mm socket, curved long needle nose pliers, sharp knife, a one foot section of 6mm vacuum line I prefer siliconeone vacuum plug or make your own. Difficulty If the front fascia is already off, then a 2 out of 5.Dec 15, 1. Messages: 5, Likes Received: Dec 15, 2.
Messages: 3, Likes Received: 1. The charcoal canister, when working properly, helps neutralize the gasoline smell from your fuel tank. Removing it will likely make your car smell worse and won't add any performance gains.
Project Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo
If you don't get a whiff of gas when you walk into your garage, it is likely still working. If you do remove it, you have two choices to vent your fuel tank.
First, put an inline filter on that vent line. If you search here, you should be able to find some examples. Second, you can plug it if you can find a truly vented fuel cap. Good luck! Dec 15, 3. I removed mine several years ago and never noticed the smell until I had it parked in my garage. It definitely makes a big difference. At some point I also came to realize that was why my gas tank was pressurized while parked in the sun. If you do remove, make sure to do it properly Dec 15, 4.
Messages: Likes Received: 0. I removed and plugged line at tank and installed a vented gas cap. Dec 15, 5. Messages: 2, Likes Received: 3. Dec 15, 6. I leave my cap slightly loose and I can smell it.
I'd also like to know where I could find a good vented cap. Dec 15, 7. Dec 15, 8. Messages: 22, Likes Received: Dec 15, 9. I've seen here where somebody used the vent that comes on the rear-end housing.
How to Remove a Charcoal Canister
I was gonna give that route a try. Dec 15, Messages: Likes Received: Last edited: Dec 15, You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content.The charcoal canister on a vehicle is attached to the gas tank via a series of hoses, and is designed to catch fuel vapors from the gas tank and store them until the vehicle is started and the engine can suck out the fumes.
This also helps with emissions, as the fumes are burned with the fuel. If you need to remove the charcoal canister for whatever reason, it can be done at home with basic tools.
In this case, the project vehicle is a Chevrolet Silverado, but the process is similar for other vehicles as well. Lift up the vehicle using the jack and place it on jack stands. Make sure the vehicle is secure before you crawl underneath it. Crawl underneath the vehicle on the driver's side by the gas tank and locate the charcoal canister. This is just forward of the gas tank and has several plastic fuel-line connections running into it.
Disconnect those lines using the flathead screwdriver.
Slide the canister out of the bracket and remove it from the vehicle. This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Runs, contact us. Step 1 Lift up the vehicle using the jack and place it on jack stands. Step 2 Crawl underneath the vehicle on the driver's side by the gas tank and locate the charcoal canister. Warning Be sure never to smoke or have any ignition source around the vehicle while you're removing the charcoal canister, as the fumes from the tank can ignite and potentially cause damage to you and the vehicle.
As long as the canister is removed, make sure that no ignition source is around the vehicle. If you have to keep it open for long periods of time, use a plastic bag and some tape to create an airtight seal around the lines temporarily. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.Be the first to write a review.
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The Australian zx Owners Association. Z Related. Woo05hApr 14, at PM. Non Technical Discuss all Z related non-Technical topics here - where to source products or service, cosmetic upgrades etc Discussions: 21, Messages:Latest: What have you done to your zed today? Part MickWApr 13, at PM. Member's Garage Rebuilding your ZX?
Post about it here. This is for major rebuild threads only, minor mods and tech questions still go in Z Related Technical Discussions: Messages: 21, Coming Events Planning an event?
Discussions: 1, Messages: 39, Latest: ZedFest 9: Dubbo robMar 23, Post Event Discussion Got an event write up? Want to share some photos from a cruise, social event or track day? Discussions: 1, Messages: 23, Latest: Car Parts for Sale or Wanted Z specific parts privately for sale.
Discussions: 10, Messages: 91, Latest: 4. For Sale by Businesses Zed-related items for sale by commercial traders.
Discussions: 1, Messages: 27, Your name or email address: Do you already have an account? No, create an account now. Yes, my password is: Forgot your password?This blog is for my zx that's featured in many youtube videos here at TyreeZtt car videos. This blog will be updated with new pictures and videos of this car often especially as the new engine build continues.
Monday, September 5, The Red Z is sold! Guys its been over 3 years since my last post on here. The car was just sold as of July I enjoyed the car for over 7 years and just decided it was time to move on. I am going to devote this page to my red Z and will also be starting a page for the 03 track model z that I have had for a few years now. Here are a few pictures and videos from closer to the end of ownership for my red Z. I will also post a final mods list as well.
Video of the last burnout in my red tt z- Video of my last drive in my red tt z- Video of me in the red car drifting in the practice lot- Last shot of the engine before selling- Last shot of the outside of the car- A few of my cars together. Posted by Jesse at PM 5 comments. Wednesday, December 31, My custom dual 1 piece exhaust "how to" with pictures and details. I have been needing to make this post for a very long time now. I have literally had hundreds of people that have asked about my exhaust so here is a full writeup on it and how it was made along with A LOT of pictures of it on and off the car.
The Australian 300zx Owners Association
I really didn't want to do this before because I had actually planned on trying to possibly patent and market the exhaust. But now I have to many things on my plate and just want to help better the Z community with my personal contribution that you guys can build off of and make better.
Annnywho the basics is it is a full 1 piece 2. It is a true 1 piece because other than bolting to the downpipes its all one welded unit that cannot be taken apart. It has a single H-pipe installed as soon as both exhaust sides start to straighten out. I weighed it once when it was off of the car and it was amazingly light compared to the stock exhaust. You can literally pick it up over your head with one hand and carry it. When I set out to do this exhaust I was on a budget given I had just been married and moved into a new house.
I did however take time to sit down and draw up a good design that I knew would flow really well and not look dog ugly, to me anyways. Here is the breakdown with pics. Here is the stock twin turbo exhaust unit that is bolted up in 3 separate pieces on each side.